So if any of us was expecting fireworks Day One of Fashion Pakistan, we were all sorely let down. Blame it on fashion fatigue, or the stuffy marquee, but there just wasn’t that oomph and energy that one would like to believe is fashion’s fraternal twin. There was however that curiosity to see what the grand dame of couture Bunto Kazmi would present in the inaugural act. For those that know Bunto, would say that the show was very much like herself: simple, straightforward and succinct. The house of Kazmi is known for its timeless elegance and so Bunto put out all the pieces that have given her design house the strength and inimitability that it has. Classic sherwani front open coats with izaars in intricate and varied embellishments like vasliand kursi ki jaali.; an heirloom of chundhri and fine maroori that Mrs Sughra Kazmi had presented to Bunto; even a version of the ivory ensemble that Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy wore to the Oscars that made one wish what a glorious moment it would’ve been if Chinoy would’ve graced the ramp as the showstopper.
Bunto KazmiAnd from the traditional yet sedate opulence of Bunto, catapulted fashion’s new sensation Sanam Chauhdri who seems to be growing from each showing. A textile graduate of the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture, Sanam decided to go the Stella Mc Carthy way and have fun with sporty fashion. The audacity of the collection could be best exemplified in her choice of the show opener: the sizzling and contentious Mathira. (Let’s not forget the fashion faux pas that happened as Mathira neared the head of the ramp that although accidental had many thinking if it was meant for shock value). Colour blocking raged the ramp in a ferocity that only neons can incite. And akin to this sultry siren, the collection was loud, audacious, and very much out there with its neon colour palette and gusty devil may care attitude in its casual playfulness. Rompers, shift dresses, cat eye sleeves, and jumpsuits made Sanam’s collection not only fun to watch, but a must pick for fashion forward summer abroad.
Sanam ChaudhriAnd from Sanam’s in your face showcase were four rather passé collections that seriously made oen question FP’s initial claim of “content”. Sanam Agha who followed after Chaudhri seems to have seriously lost her way with fashion (I mean seriously pairing a banarsi chiffon with frills for some frothy fruit cake dress just didn’t cut it). And while some of her pieces were passable at best, others seriously bombed. Good news is that she can still make a decent jumpsuit and pants.
Sanam AghaAyesha Hashwani one felt should stick to her shaded/solid, asymmetrical sexy cocktail dresses and not try to infuse embellishment. Her signature is flowing overtly sensual dresses and she should stick to that without going towards that dangerous kaam kill. A fairly lackluster presentation from someone like Hashwani who can do better.
Ayesha HashwaniPinx was Jinx tweeted fashion journalist Aamna Isani, and just made no sense of the runway and her place was more at Rizwan Beyg’s Showcase than at a day when someone as esteemed as Bunto Kazmi was showing. Most of her clothing was just plain commercial and anything that seemed even remotely interesting was a Sania Maskatiya rip off (the ruffled galla patti and the cuffed sleeves).
PinxArsalan and Yahseer, one assumed would bring some much needed testosterone on the ramp but failed with poorly cut and fit garments.
Arsalan and YahseerThe evening ended with Maheen Khan’s sublime and immaculately cut pieces that glided onto the ramp. True to her own sense of style Maheen presented an effortlessly chic collection of plain kameezes with gentle frills that was sensual in its simplicity. Maheen has that unique ability to lend a certain life and movement to the fabric and in garments sans any embellishment, she showcased this strength that her label has of timeless elegance for the woman whose personality is her strongest accessory.
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